The Lakeland Loop: Day Four - Buttermere to Eskdale

Day 4 of our Lakeland Loop trip was also my 46th birthday and the day we were destined to go over Black Sail Pass. The previous three days were catching up with me and I woke up tired or rather didn't wake up despite the fact that I was riding my bike. I was pretty much asleep as we tried our best to cycle the route that led between Buttermere and Crummock Water and then over the top to Mosedale Beck but it seemed an impossible task. The route had turned into some sort of rocky hell hole that then digressed further into intermittent boggyness and finally impossible upwards gradients. It wasn't necessarily a bad thing to be at least three quarters asleep. Eventually we got a rapid descent down into Ennerdale for all our hard work and found ourselves on a pathway with high walls on either side. This became rather awkward when a fallen tree totally obstructed the path but with a bit of manoeuvring we managed to squeeze underneath it although Mark was abruptly reminded that he still had a rucksack attached when he couldn't quite fit on his first attempt.

We were under the impression that there would be 'tea and buns' at Bowness but there was not so much as a crumb to be had and it was the same story at Ennerdale yha and Black Sail yha. We should have booked a packed lunch to bring with us from Buttermere yha but we hadn't ... The most difficult aspect of the fire roads through Ennerdale Forest turned out to be a man and his dog. The dog walker obviously knew the score because he did his best to put as much distance as he could between us and his dog. Mark, on the other hand, was oblivious to the possibility of attack pretty much until the moment the dog nipped him quickly on the ankle. The dog was lucky as clip ins prevented a swift retaliation and Mark was still cursing the dog when we arrived at Black Sail Hut from where we could see the towering mountain pass for which we were destined on the other side of the valley. 

It was at this stage in the proceedings that I finally woke up. As usual Mark was leading the way over what is 'the Loop's second official carry'; feeling a tad sorry for me he came back to offer me a hand with my bike. This kick started me into action as there was no way I was going to forego the pleasure of claiming I had done the Loop ALL by myself. I would get myself and my bike over every inch of said route if it took me forever ... it probably seemed like forever to Mark as he was forced to watch me creep ever higher up the pass. To cap it all there appeared to be a group of older gentlemen watching our antics from the comfort of Black Sail Hut. I would loved to have heard their comment  'eh, look at that fellow letting that poor woman struggle on up there without so much as lending a hand'. It cheered me up no end as I considered such imaginary conversations far below.

The good mood lasted to the col but carrying your bike downhill just doesn't seem right and the initial descent was so difficult neither of us could hold our nerve to ride it. We blamed the lack of food and extreme exertion for our shakiness but I think we might have been kidding ourselves. However, once the descent became slightly less radical it was pure delight as we zigged and zagged for all we were worth right into Wasdale Head Inn and two of the largest bar meals that money could buy. 

After gorging ourselves to bursting point it was onwards and upwards for the third time that day and a blur of wet, grassy, boggy, unrideable surfaces - I think I might have been a touch mardy until we final skirted Burnmoor Tarn. Then we had the pleasure of a wonderful techy descent all the way down into Boot and our bed for the night at Eskdale yha. Mad as it sounds I think I need to do this day again when I'm not quite so knackered before I start!